You’ll need the right equipment. Also, be sure you’re not cutting a tree near power lines—those can fall on you or your saw.
Start by making a shallow notch in the side of the tree you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 or 1/4 of the tree’s diameter. Contact Tree Cutting Irvine now!
A healthy tree provides shade, cleans the air, and can help to reduce soil erosion. But if a tree is unhealthy, it can pose a hazard to people and property. A professional arborist performs a risk assessment and can provide recommendations to minimize the threat to nearby structures. A proper evaluation should include a thorough inspection of the entire tree. A professional should also evaluate whether the tree has any potential hazards, such as a dangerous lean, proximity to power lines, or other structural defects.
A general rule is that if more than 50% of the tree is dead or dying, it’s time to cut it. However, this varies by species and the individual tree’s history. Other indicators that a tree may be unhealthy or about to fail are if the trunk has major cavities, fungus growing on the bark, mushroom rings at the base of the trunk, or large swaths of missing bark.
Examine the entire tree for signs of damage, disease, or pest infestation. The appearance of a tree should be normal for its species and location. Occasionally, homeowners may be concerned about non-defects, such as needles turning yellow or separating bark, but these occurrences are typically natural and nothing to worry about.
Observe the natural lean of the tree and determine its fall zone, an area at least twice the height of the tree that can be cleared without damaging property or injuring people. A sudden change in a tree’s lean can indicate breakage and should be evaluated immediately by an arborist.
Look at the root zone to assess the condition of the roots. A healthy root system is a strong indicator of overall tree health. Roots that extend close to the base of a trunk or in a direction away from it are indicative of root diseases.
An arborist can use tools such as an air spade to expose the trunk flare and remove girdling roots that threaten the stability of the tree. Identifying these issues is vital to the safety of the tree and the surrounding area.
Determine the Falling Zone
A good tree felling plan requires a clear escape route. In fact, 90% of all accidents that occur during a tree felling happen within 15 seconds after the back cut and within 5 ft of the stump or trunk (or in the case of a falling tree, the fall zone). The escape route is a path of retreat away from the area where the tree will land when it falls. It must be a clear, unobstructed path and it should be used immediately as the back cut is made.
The first step in determining the fall zone is to evaluate the lean and load of the tree. A heavily loaded tree with a narrow base is more likely to topple during cutting than one that is well balanced and not overloaded.
Also, take note of any obstacles in the area that could be impacted by the falling tree – structures such as buildings and power lines; pavement; outdoor furnishings; and other trees. Ideally, these should be moved before the tree felling starts. It is important to assess the strength of the wind, as it can impact the direction of a falling tree.
Once the hazards have been identified, walk around the tree looking outward for things that the tree (or its branches) may strike when it falls. These include: buildings, cars, and people on the ground; power lines above; other trees that could change the direction of the fall; and debris (such as dead branches or old limbs hanging up in the canopy) that could change the direction of the fall.
Once the hazards and escape route are determined, mark the area that will be the fall zone with a flag or some other method of marking the location. The fall zone should be at least twice the height of the tree, allowing sufficient space for it to land without damaging objects below it. If it is not possible to establish a two-tree length zone, it is best to skip the felling and call a professional. If you do proceed, look up in the canopy for “widowmakers” — dead branches hung up there that are likely to drop as the cutting shifts the balance of the tree toward falling.
Make the Notch Cut
When it comes to felling trees, a lot goes into the process beyond just whipping out your chainsaw and getting to work. Various factors can influence where the tree will fall and how it will fall, including the way it’s leaning, obstacles in its path like power lines or roads, and other environmental variables. Felling a tree is dangerous work and it’s important to make the right decisions to ensure your own safety as well as that of everyone in the vicinity.
In order to direct the direction a tree falls, you must first create a directional notch cut. This is done by cutting a V-shaped opening with your chainsaw into the side of the tree at an angled angle. A directional notch will help to guide the tree as it collapses because it provides a hinge point that helps the trunk move in a certain direction.
The most common directional notches include the Conventional, Humboldt, and Open-Faced notch. Choosing which one to use depends on the lay of the land, desired stump height, and whether you want the hinge to remain intact until it hits the ground. The Conventional notch, also known as the traditional cut, is an older technique that has been used by loggers for centuries. This notch features a conventional top cut and a bottom cut, which meet just above the apex of the v shape. This notch allows for a greater amount of control but it doesn’t offer the same flexibility in how it guides the tree to the ground.
Another popular directional notch is the Humboldt notch, which is similar to the Conventional notch but offers more flexibility in how it guides the tree. This notch features an angled top cut and a horizontal bottom cut that meets just above the apex of the V shape. The upside of this notch is that it can help prevent the hinge from catching on an obstacle as it collapses, which can happen with the Conventional and Open-Faced notches.
Lastly, the open-faced directional notch is an ideal option for flat or sloping terrain because it can provide more accuracy in how the tree will fall than other notches do. This notch is made by first making the top angled cut and then aiming the saw to the bottom of the V. Once the saw penetrates the top of the angled notch, it’s a good idea to pound wedges into the kerf behind the bar to further protect the saw from the pressure of the falling tree.
Make the Falling Cut
The falling cut, or the undercut, is the first of two cuts you will make to fell a tree. It determines the direction the tree will fall. Start with a horizontal cut, about chest height, on the side of the tree facing the desired direction. Then cut about one-third of the way into the tree at a 45 to 60-degree angle. This creates a wedge-shaped cut out of the face of the tree.
The undercut should be deep enough to prevent the tree from falling on itself, but it should not extend past where the top of the undercut comes together with the bottom of the undercut. A standard undercut is a V-shaped cut, but an obtuse or reverse undercut can be used as well.
It is important to clear the surrounding area where the tree will fall. Branches, stumps and other debris can get tangled in the saw blade or trip you as the tree falls. It is also a good idea to clear an escape route, at least two feet wide, on the non-falling side of the tree.
You will need to decide how high you want the tree to fall. Cutting it too high makes it more likely to slam into the ground or other trees, and can make the wood less valuable if you are cutting for lumber. It is difficult to control the fall path of a tall, leaning tree and it can cause damage or injury if it hits structures, such as houses, cars or other trees.
It may be helpful to enlist a helper when felling a large, difficult or dangerous tree. A lookout can keep an eye on the tree and tap you on the shoulder when it is time to make a fall cut, helping you to avoid dangerous situations. They can also be a valuable safety check, alerting you to potential hazards such as loose branches, diseases or cracks in the trunk. A lookout should be familiar with the felling process and able to assist you in making a proper undercut or obtuse cut, if necessary.